TOP TIP: Not quite ready to take on Dartmoor by yourself? No stress! Fortunately there are a couple of options to help you safely and successfully navigate the National Park - between master of the Tors Neil and ex-helicopter pilot Will, they've got you covered!


Dartmoor climbing

Trad – Yes
Sport – No
Lead – Yes
Bouldering - Yes

About Dartmoor climbing

Dartmoor is three hundred and seventy square miles of boggy moorland in the county of Devon. These picturesque National Park lands are visited by over ten million people every year. The wilderness of Dartmoor has inspired artists and novelists to create unique masterpieces. Hiking, birdwatching and fishing are popular activities and archaeologists are drawn to explore the moors stone circles and diverse medieval remains.

What draws climbers to Dartmoor with magnetic force are the areas impressive granite tors. They provide climbers of all levels with some of the UK's most rugged routes in all aspects of the word. Though sport climbers do miss out on these great climbs. Dartmoor is limited to bouldering and trad climbing. Bolting Dartmoor granite for sport climbing lines isn't permitted.

Best spots for Bouldering in Dartmoor

Bovey Valley Woods

Bovey Valley is a magical wonderland for boulderers. Here there are huge granite boulders hiding in shady woodland glades just waiting to be discovered. This really is the place to get back to nature whilst you boulder.

Closest parking: Use the Pullabrook car park. Take any footpath from there through the woods and you'll find more than a boulder or two!

Location on map: Bovey Valley Woods


Bonehill Rocks

The Bonehill Rocks are outstanding and not just because they're granite tors. They are the prime bouldering spot in Dartmoor. Start on the Baby Slabs which are graded from V0 to V3 then progress through the other one hundred and seventy routes to a mega V12 on The Wave.

Closest parking: Use the car park located on the B3387 just east of Widecombe in the Moor. From there, it's an uphill climb to reach Bonehill Rocks.

Location on map: Bonehill Rocks


Down Tor

There's more than one boulder to climb at Down Tor. In fact there's a whole series of boulders which offer boulderers around one hundred and twenty climbs. More than enough to keep any boulderer busy for an entire weekend. Though if you've reached advanced level, these boulders might be a bit on the easy side for you as they're mostly low to middle grade

Closest parking: Side of the road by Norsworthy Bridge. Take the worn footpath through the fields and you'll spot the tor up ahead

Location on map: Down Tor

Outdoor-rock-climbing-Dartmoor---DIY-guide---instructors-1

Best spots for Trad & Lead climbing in Dartmoor

Hounds Tor

Hounds Tor is a configuration of granite tors popular with both trad climbers and boulderers. There's no shortage of route or problem choice on the tor either as there are over one hundred and eighty to pick from. They all live up to their names too, including the ‘Skin Graft’ so be prepared for sore hands.

Closest parking: On the side of the road right by Hounds Tor.

Location on map: Hounds Tor


Bench Tor

Bench Tor is unbeatable both for its trad climbing routes and its scenic setting. Surrounded by forest, this granite tor rises above the River Dart Valley and offers climbers over twenty intermediate routes to pit their wits against while enjoying the scenery below.

Closest parking: Park in the north end car park of the Venford Reservoir and then follow the trail to the Bench Tor.

Location on map: Bench Tor


TOP TIP: Not quite ready to take on Dartmoor by yourself? No stress! Fortunately there are a couple of options to help you safely and successfully navigate the National Park - between master of the Tors Neil and ex-helicopter pilot Will, they've got you covered!

Looking for more climbing spots? Check out our other location guides at https://stories.beyonk.com/